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Town Mouse: The kitchen is the new religion and I’ve converted

Regulars | By Tom Hodgkinson

Tom Hodgkinson on the decline of our inner Diogenes

In the Middle Ages, towns and cities across Europe would compete with each other to build the biggest church. This same competitive spirit has overtaken London today, but now it’s all about the kitchen. My friends’ houses look fairly modest from the outside, but penetrate more deeply and a vast, echoing atrium will open out at the back. It will have immense glass doors, looking onto an excessively neat garden which looks more like the terrace of an Ibizan villa than the rose-strewn backyards of old. Indoors, there will be exposed brickwork and hanging lamps. There will be a granite-topped island, so you can drizzle olive oil over the rocket while chatting about Brexit; and there will be white tiles on the floor. It never stops. Just when you have become accustomed to the biggest kitchen ever, another friend tops it with an even bigger and more temple-like kitchen. They...

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